Dinner at allswell
At the urging of my friend, I decided to dine at Allswell. I wasn’t familiar with the restaurant, but my hesitation subsided when I learned Nate Smith, the Brooklyn restaurant’s resident chef, had previously served as Chef de Cuisine at the Spotted Pig. Recalling a number of memorable experiences at the Pig, I approached the corner of N. 10th street with great anticipation.
Allswell is a gastropub with a menu that changes daily. Dimly lit with communal tables, it immediately felt cozy. I don’t know if it was the wallpaper or the R&B jams, but I definitely felt like I was in someone’s home.
After a thorough perusal of the cocktail list, I settled on the Tomboy. At first sip it remained me of Thai food- in a good way. The ginger and lime soda, complimented with fresh cucumber, married well with the gin. I stuck with it for the rest of the evening. I’m a sucker for a flaky crust and my appetizer, the tiny Curry Chicken Pot Pie, packed a lot a flavor into two bites. Before I had a chance to order another one, the Broccoli Di Cicco arrived. Broccoli Di Cicco with almonds, granna, and Shishito peppers- was delicious. The well-balanced plate of brine, salt and texture was my favorite of the night.
What’s a visit to a pub without a burger? All is well with Allswell’s burger. Having worked for April Bloomfield, Chef Smith couldn’t half step on a burger. It was meaty and full of a rich beef flavor. The french fries were crunchy on the outside and silky inside- thrice fried, perhaps. There was also, gnocchi, which was good. The wild mushrooms gave it nice earthiness, but it was merely a supporting role to the burger’s lead.
I’m not really into sweets, but the Toasted Maple custard was velvety and dusted with some warm winter spices. Accompanied by a buttery shortbread cookie to add some texture, it was a sweet way to cap off a lovely meal. Allswell is welcoming and has a fun staff, so I’ll definitely be back. To see the day’s menu check their Twitter HERE, then pop in for bite or a brew at 124 Bedford Avenue, Williamsburg.
-Words and photos by: Elle Clay